Autogermana BMW

Our first order of business was to find the Bogota BMW dealership in order to get oil changes for the bikes and a new rear tire and possibly a new side case to replace the one that I had destroyed on the previous evening. After a brief telephone conversation with the shop’s service manager, Edgar Gomez, it became readily apparent that our hopes for success in this area would, in all likelihood, be realized. However, when we arrived at the new facility of Autogermana BMW, we found that our optimistic expectations were to be greatly exceeded; we were ushered into the new facility as if we were foreign dignitaries, offered coffee and chocolates, and seated in a nice office for Edgar Gomez to ascertain how he might fulfill our every service need. We were delighted to find that Edgar could have all of the work done while we waited, but we declined the enthusiastic offer to have our disgustingly dirty motos thoroughly cleaned due to time constraints. While our bikes were being serviced, Edgar offered to accompany us to a nearby restaurant for lunch. Harry and I had agreed that we had to pay for Edgar’s meal in light of the service experience, but when we sought the bill from the waitress, we discovered that Edgar had beat us to the punch, which left us shaking our heads in amazement. Once we were back at the shop, the service on our bikes was soon completed. After hearty handshakes, photos, and settling up, we were happily on our way with fresh oil and filters and a new rear tire and side case for my bike.

Most of the motorcycles at the dealership were various iterations of of the GS line old and new.

The dealership opened in this new location only two months ago and have quite an investment in motorcycle and accessory, excuse me, lifestyle products. We met Ralph who offerd us a lot of advise on Bogota and Colombia. A real friendly and outgoing person.

Magarita recommended a route on the way to and from the dealership. She said we would probable enjoy the scenery. What an understatement. Avenida Circunvalar cuts a park like twisty path just above the busy downtown area with spectacular views. Some fortunate souls get to drive the road twice a day to and from work.

Bogota...What a Beautiful and Welcoming First Impression

Once we completed the customs and motorcycle importation process and then liberated our motos from their pallets at the shipping office, we set off into Bogota at dusk and in a heavy rain. While our original trip plan excluded Colombia due to security concerns, we were now headed into a huge metropolitan area at rush hour to find a hostel in the southeast part of the city that had been heartily recommended to Harry by a fellow adventure rider. After much circling around the general area of our destination in the dark rain and a minor mishap (I clipped an “invisible short post” with my side case and tumbled to the pavement), we eventually found our safe haven: the Anandamayi Hostel. Once again, we were warmly welcomed into a beautiful spot, and once again space was made in the inner courtyard for our motos. After getting situated and changing into dry clothes, the owner of the facility, Margarita, ordered a large Colombian dinner to be delivered, which we gladly shared with her and one of her staff members, Fany. We had indeed stumbled upon a wonderful experience. The Amandamayi Hostel was originally a lovely home dating back to the mid-1600s, which is located in the oldest part of Bogota, La Candelaria. On the following morning, we explored the enchanting neighborhood, had breakfast at an exceptionally pleasant French pastry shop, and heartily agreed that perhaps we shouldn’t rush off to our next destination, Cali, as we had originally planned. The wonderful Magarita. A view of Bogota's Mount Surrat from the Hostel,s rear gardens. A typical room.

A view of the city from in front of the Hostel.

Collecting Ourselves and the Motos in Bogota

We arrived in Bogota and found the cargo and customs area within walking distance of the passenger airport. After some false stops at the DHL and Customs office, we got the process going. Unfortunately DHL released our motorcycles to a transfer holding company that was about a mile from customs. That was a problem. We were both a bit exhausted and with headaches from the high altitude and heat. The nice people in the customs office, sensing our problem, summoned a guy that would drive us over and back. Jorge Sanchez, started as just a driver but turned out to be a helper that actually provided a useful service because of his car. We gladly paid him for his services. We have his mobile if anyone needs it for their trip.

It was inauguration day back in the United States and to our surprise every TV was turned to the US coverage. Large crowd gathered around rivited to the TVs. There was a genuine excitement in the air but we had business to tend to and we could watch the coverage later.

At the holding company we had to pay an extra $60 USD to extract our motorcycles from the shipping dock. Once we settled all of the customs and shipping paperwork they brought our motorcycles to the edge of a shipping dock and asked us to pull our truck up so they can load them. They were dumbfounded when they realized we planned to uncrate them and ride them off. The next problem, of course, was no ramp. After some negotiating with the workers, the foreman organized sending a second forklift truck on a mile trip through the airport to the parking to lower the Motorcycles. One worry was the 80 degree list of one of the motorcycles on the pallet. Fortunately it stayed upright as the pallet almost broke apart from the lifting. Those extra shipping straps Mike gave us at Southwest BMW, were a trip saver. It was a real heart in mouth moment for everyone until the motorcycles reached the ground again.

After about 45 minutes to unstrap, reassemble, reload, refill the tires and get suited up, we were off to Bogota city proper. Phew! ...but the excitment was not over.

Surprise...We are Going to Colombia Next Not Ecuador

On Saturday in Panama City we went out to the airport to organize shipping the motorcycles and us to South America. Once we got to the cargo area we found out all of the options, we thought we had, evaporated. No one was shipping to Quito Ecuador in December and January and Bogota Colombia was our only choice. So we took a timeout to discuss the merits of going to Colombia. Long story short, we decided the pain of stopping the trip, turning back and subjecting ourselves to Central American’s border torture made Colombia a better looking option. Not a hard decision after we discussed various approaches to additional safeguards while in Colombia. So we are going to Bogota. That conjures up all kinds of negative images. First we explored shipper options. We went to the most popular shipper, Girag. They told us the only sure option was to drop the motorcycles off in two hours for a Saturday departure. We looked around at the other options and of all things found DHL willing to ship our motorcycles for around the same price as Girag. They were very professional and told us we could ship any day we wanted. So we booked the motorcycles to ship out Monday and bought plan tickets to fly out Tuesday morning. Our plan was to arrive in Bogota early Tuesday, collect the motorcycles and head for Ecuador the next morning.

Saying goodbye to our motorcycles from the taxi.

Next ...to Bogota Colombia, collecting the Motorcycles and avoiding any of Escobar's buds, the FARC and the usual suspects.

Panama City ….Suddenly We Are In Big City Again

I’ve always marveled at the pictures of the Bridge of The Americas that crosses over the Panama Canal and I guess divides Central America from South America. However, we don’t feel ready to declare that we made it to South America quite yet. I did have a sensation when, without warning we found us ascending to the Bridge of the Americas’ entrance. What a sight to look down and actually see where the Panama Canal leads out to the Pacific Ocean. The sensation was an absolute thrill. These bridge pictures we taken later as we crossed the thing multiple times trying to find the Mira Flora locks or by getting misdirected by an over enthusiastic traffic cop. This is looking towards the Canal.

An empty car hauler heading to the Pacific Ocean. Maybe it will bring back more Asian imports?

Part of the Panama Cityscape

After finally finding the BMW dealership we checked on a tire and getting the motorcycles serviced. No tire and come back Monday. We met Luis, the mechanic who was really helpful with getting us started on the shipping process. A local BMW rider, Juan Carlos was also very helpful including recommending a place to stay. I can’t say we were overwhelmed with the rest of the dealership’s treatment of us. We were mostly ignored and had to seek out assistance to buy some parts. Paying almost $25 USD for a $5.00 headlight bulb further dampened our enthusiasm for the place.

As we were looking for the BMW dealership we passed Panama Bikes. I recalled the owner, while running a Harley Chopper shop, rides a 1200 Adventure. We stopped in and talked to him. He had a tire but did not want to part with it on Saturday afternoon so we left. Maybe it was because it was late in the business day on Saturday but we certainly didn’t feel any desire to hang around and were not encouraged. We were genuinely interested in his business but it didn't seem to matter. He did ask us to put a note in an “Advrider” note book. We did and then unceremoniously departed.

Our hotel was clean but a little pricy for what we got. It did have the all important place to park.

We met a couple from Germany traveling from Texas to Argentina in a tricked out CJ. Dirk and his lovely wife Lieve both ride GSs and have traveled extensively on them. This time they decided to try something different. You can follow their travels at http://www.latinotrails.com/ .

Of course we could not miss a trip out to the Canal. It was the highlight of our visit to Panama.

I know some have been disappointed or underwhelmed with seeing the actual canal. I was impressed. Had it been built in the last 20 years I would not be moved either. I was moved when I thought about when it was built, the level of thought that was put into the design and the enduring image of American ingenuity. We watched a couple of ships go through the process and headed back to the city.

The officials at the Canal announced proudly that they had secured all of the financing to build the new canal. I didn't know it was a definite project but I guess time wwill tell. The plan is to build it just beyond the little hill with the building on the summit. The new Canel will handle the modern super tankers that now have to make the long trip around the continent.

On the way out of the Canal area we passed some of the old houses where the US workers lived while building the Canal. These were described in David McCoullough's excellent book on the Canal. On the way back to the city we went out to Amar a series of small islands connected to the mainland by a treelined causeway. The area is full of restaurants and tourist shops. It was a fun area with great views of the downtown skyline, anchored yachts, cargo and cruise ships. We found a nice restaurant to have diner and enjoy the views.

It was a nice way to spend a lazy Sunday afternoon. Next.....getting us and the Motos to South America.

David Panama...a real working city

It was a reasonably cool day and the road along the Pacific coast was smooth with great sweeping corners. As with the prior day, we often sped by coconut plantations where palm oil is made.

Here is the actual Palm Oil source. When you ride by one of the processing factories it smells just like standing at a movie theater's popcorn consession.

We made it to the Panama border in the late morning with that now familiar sinking feeling of anticipation of things to come. We were somewhat pleased when we were once riding again in less than two hours of the same routine. It would appear that four hours of the process make two hours look pretty good, even lucky.

The above view seems to be that reocurring blue and grey tint nightmare. Below we found some familiar stickers of fellow travelers.

We made friends with some more Mexican GS riders touring the length of Central America. They were fun to talk to and compare notes. They also gave us one of their trip stickers. we gave them a card with our blog address but it seemed like an unequal exchange. Maybe we should get stickers next time....or maybe not.

A little cultural exchange with a policeman and his radar gun. Fortunately he let us go on our way with a warning and a hundred questions about our trip.

We decided to end the day’s riding fairly early, as there appeared to be no good stopping points between David, Panama and Panama City, where we intend to make travel arrangements for ourselves and our motos to South America to resume the trip. David proved to be interesting in the sense that it is the first stop since Chinandega, Nicaragua, that has not been a tourist destination, with all of the attendant touristy shops, etc. There was something refreshing in seeing people simply leading their lives, working, shopping and going to the town square to listen to a band play Panamanian music.

Next stop...Panama City and figuring out how to get the motos into South America.