Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Reaching Our Southernmost Destination - Ushuaia

Descending the mountain pass I didn’t expect to round a bend and abruptly find us entering Ushuaia. There, directly in front of us was the welcome sign I had been seeing in so many pictures. Wow, we actually made it and in one piece.
After getting the obligatory picture we headed off to explore the town and find some place to spend the night. We stopped by a number of places that were listed in the Lonely Planet but they were either booked or no place to park the motorcycles. We eventually stumbled on to the Drake hostel. I remembered the name from Nina and Trevor’s write up on Ushuaia. We checked it out and it turned out to be much better than any of the places that were all booked up.
From the street it didn’t look like anything special. It includes a nice open area in the rear, an atrium common area and even computers in the room.
After checking in we walked around town, got something to eat and took pictures of the waterfront. The town’s population shoots up when the cruise ships anchor. As we were arriving in town two behemoth cruise ships were disgorging passengers like salmon spawning. Soon the streets were teeming with shoppers and the city had all of the Penguin motif stuff ready for the taking. Seriously, I have to admit I liked Ushuaia, despite the crowds. It is a well run city with good restaurants and outdoorsy activities available for all taste. I eventually got over my expectation that we would find Ushuaia to be an isolated, sparsely populated outpost in the midst of a vast wilderness.
A correction is in order. We have been referencing Ushuaia as the southernmost city in the Western Hemisphere. According to the Ushuaia Chamber of Commerce we are underselling their notoriety. It is the southern most city in the world. How is that for a superlative?
Now here is another superlative. About 20 miles beyond Ushuaia is the end of Argentina’s route 3, the proclaimed southern most highway in the world. Since it is close by and it was another warm sunny day, we decided we could not pass up the opportunity for another cheesy photo op.
Again, we were thinking we would be in the wilderness and all alone. Who else would find it appealing to travel this far just to say they reached the end of the road?
Well apparently large numbers of cruise ship passengers. They were here in droves. They were on foot, in cabs, on bicycles and in buses big and small.
There were so many, in fact, we had to wait in line to get a motorcycle in front of the sign so we could take the cheesy picture.
So much for our second unfulfilled wilderness experience expectation.

On to the Island of Tierra del Fuego

Next, off to the island of Tierra del Fuego (Land of Fire) and to what we thought was the “southernmost city in the Western Hemisphere”, Ushuaia. Summer was definitely over and we were starting to experience some seriously cold nights. We didn’t want to get snowbound in Ushuaia so we wick it up a bit. The most direct route on to the island took us to the city of Rio Grande on the island of TDF. It turned out to be a long day in the saddle. From Calafate we crossed over to the East side of the continent, cross the Magellan Strait on a ferry, manage 2 border crossings and log 420 miles before arriving at Rio Grande that evening.
As we crossed the Magellan Strait it was fun to let the mind drift a bit. We were looking at essentially same landscape and stretch of water Ferdinand Magellan saw in the 1500s when he discovered the significant shortcut for round the world voyagers. Wow.
The landscape of Tierra del Fuego island runs from interesting ocean views, mountains, fungus treed forests to long boring stretches of plains. Here are the pictures to show you what I mean.
Sadly a lot of the island’s trees are dying. I believe from a fungus.

Stopping by the Perito Glacier

Our next destination is the Perito Moreno Glacier and National Park. The closes city to the Glacier is El Calafate, situated on Lake Argentina. The road south of Bajo Caracoles was mostly dirt and gravel with little stretches of asphalt. Slowly but surely the romantic Ruta 40 will be entirely paved and no longer a challenge to complete. El Calafate is a very busy town. Surprisingly busy since the tourist season ended several weeks ago, I’d hate to see what it was like during the height of the busy season. The main street is teeming with shops and people filling them up. I can’t complain though. I was able to find a shop that sold those fancy berets the Argentine horsemen wear. This town has a large number of adventure vehicles that look like they have never been off road. This picture sort of captures the range of diversions in town.
The temperature dropped 20 degrees as we approached the glacier area.
I’ve seen glaciers before and was not sure the extra day, extra miles and $20 USD would be worth the trip. I still didn’t like that they charged us foreigners 3 times what the locals pay but the Glacier is spectacular. They have a well done aluminum and wood walkway down to the glacier face that provides a number of close-up views. While we were there big chunks of the glacier fell into the water. We heard them but I never saw it happen. Unfortunately the sound that catches your attention is the last stage of the event, save for the wake created by the ice falling in the water.
We met a couple from Germany on a GS. They shipped their motorcycle from Germany and planned to leave it in South America so they could return next year for more touring. More motorcycles showed up in the parking lot. Three of them were from New Zealand.
The ride out to the Glacier and back to Calafate was pretty scenic also.